Assembly

Epee blade (short tang) for a pistol/cross grip (tang is the name for the part of the weapon that the handle fits onto).
Epee guard (must have a small indent in the centre hole to allow the blade wire to pass through the guard)
Epee inside-guard socket.
Epee pad.
Pistol/cross grip. (not insulated so if hit by epee point it does not register a valid hit).
Nut for pistol or cross grips.

A set is put in a blade before mounting. A set brings the tip of the blade more centrally towards the target when you are standing en garde. This is done by placing the tang of the blade in a vise and pulling gently on the forte of the blade (the thicker end of the blade just above the tang). A set should be down and to the left or right (left for a right-handed fencer, right for a left-handed fencer). The set shown here is a standard set of about 7-9 degrees; a heavy set is bent more and a light set is less. People favoring flick hits usually have a heavy set.

After setting the blade, lock the blade in a vise with the tang vertical. Slide on the guard making sure the blade wire runs inside the indent (as shown by the arrow).

Slide on the inside-guard socket, making sure the red blade wires are inside the guard socket’s hole (otherwise the wires would be trapped between the guard and the socket and split). Then push the wires flat against the guard so they run directly away from the blade.

Slide on the pad with the red blade wires still running along the guard so they are between the inside guard socket and pad.

Install the handle.

IMPORTANT! THE SLOT SHOWN ABOVE BY THE ARROW IS WHERE THE RED BLADE WIRES MUST GO; OTHERWISE THE WIRE WILL BE TRAPPED BETWEEN THE GUARD AND THE ALUMINIUM HANDLE AND WILL BREAK. FOR A FRENCH GRIP, A SLOT MUST BE MADE BY USING A FILE AS SHOWN ABOVE RIGHT.

After placing the nut on the tang, tighten it using an Allen key. For French grips, install the handle, install the brass inset, and then tighten the pommel by hand.

Using the round file, gently pull away the white cotton insulation that surrounds the copper on the end of the red blade wires, exposing the copper wires themselves.

Wrap each copper wire once around one of the two sockets closest to each other, between the washer and guard socket itself, with the insulating sleeve coming to the socket. Repeat with the other copper wire and the other of the close sockets. Tighten the sockets using a screw driver.

The wires should come from the inside-guard socket, go towards the outside of the guard, and then down and underneath to the blade.

Cut off the excess copper wire and tuck the red blade wires under the guard socket and pad.

Push the pad back into place and check the tightness of all the nuts.